A boat with fishing gear on the Sīkrags beach. Photo by Jānis Puķītis.
While summer outings to the sea are most often associated with idle moments of leisure, this summer, I spent days filled with rich impressions conducting fieldwork by the sea to learn more about the coastal life of the inhabitants of Kolka and the Liv villages in the surrounding region. The ethnographic expedition "Life by the Sea", led by researcher Guntra Aistara from 26 to 29 June, brought together anthropologists, historians, and memory preservers and collectors from non-governmental organisations to jointly document contemporary life and traditions in the Liv villages of Northern Kurzeme. The aim of the expedition was to gain a comprehensive insight into present-day coastal life, with a particular focus on traditions pertaining to fishing, agricultural practices and culinary heritage. Furthermore, the expedition explored how contemporary coastal inhabitants interact with their environment, the efforts they make to preserve environmental diversity, and the challenges they face.
An essential skill for a researcher beginning fieldwork is the ability to stay open to curiosity and states of not-knowing (Peterson and Olson 2024). I also entered the field guided by these qualities, but given the limited time of the expedition, I decided to focus my curiosity on matters concerning food. An advantage of the ethnographic expedition was that it afforded the opportunity to not only listen to the locals’ stories but also experience their food stories through all the senses—by observing and participating in the preparation process, smelling the aromas of local products, and last but not least – tasting them.
Smoking flounder in the smoking shed. Photo by Jānis Puķītis.
The world of traditional flavours and aromas can be best experienced in Kolka and the surrounding region by savouring locally smoked flounder and other fish, sklandrausis (a pastry made of rye dough and filled with potato and carrot paste), and freshly baked bread. These products, prepared by producers each following their unique recipe variations, also serve as excellent examples of short food supply chains. Fish purchased from local fishermen are prepared in special smoking sheds, often located in the backyard of the farm. Signposts point the way to houses or small roadside stalls where smoked fish can be bought; however, often knowledge of such vendors is passed along by word-of-mouth among locals and visitors.
During the expedition, I got the impression that every stage of the food supply chain leading to the final product relates to the local inhabitants’ personal motivation and commitment to the work they do. "Coastal fishing cannot even be called a business. It's a hobby," admits one interviewee. When studying contemporary food consumption habits, one often finds confirmation of the view that 'we have been moulded to be enthusiastic but passive consumers; our active participation has been whittled back to a minimum' (Nesta 2024). However, the activities of the coastal fishermen and home-based producers strongly reflect a more active form of participation. I am inclined to think that, like me, both locals and visitors in Kolka and the surrounding region feel more like 'participants' in the local processes when they enjoy freshly smoked flounder or a sklandrausis for dessert made from a special recipe.
However, while searching for accounts of preserved traditions in the region, it is important not to forget contemporary challenges and opportunities. What do local and coastal village visitors think of the emerging opportunities in recent years to dine and enjoy coffee during summer at newly established cafés, which offer a more cosmopolitan range of options? To what extent small village grocery shops determine the availability of food for local people? And what does the story of the "last Mohicans" of Pitrags, who still have cows and other livestock in their backyard farm[1], symbolise for the local population? Looking at the broader context such as the interactions between people the environment and broader state and global dynamics, life by the sea emerges as a multi-layered landscape, rich with contradictions and inspiring connections among the various actors.
Expedition participants deepen their understanding of the expedition field and the interactions between the environment and people by exploring Slītere Nature Park with a guide. Photo by Jānis Puķītis.
The ethnographic expedition in Northern Kurzeme was more than just a thought-provoking event for researchers – it served as part of a broader study of life by the sea led by Guntra Aistara. At the end of the project, referencing the book Vilis Veldre published about Kolka and Liv villages in the first half of the last century, a new publication will be created that will serve as a future testimony of contemporary life by the sea. As colder weather gradually settles in, it raises the question of what life is like by the sea during other seasons. What happens at sea and along the coast when summer holidaymakers return to their regular city routines? I believe that life by the sea does not stop in winter; I wager the seasonal change brings with it a new bouquet of aromas and tastes, making it different - perhaps quieter and more mysterious to the outside observer.
Participants of the ethnographic expedition together by the Liv community centre in Mazirbe. Photo by Jānis Puķītis.
The project has received financial support from the Latvian Foundation, the Central European University and the Kurzeme Planning Region as part of the VKKF Programme for the Development of the Historical Lands of Latvia carried out within the framework of the Kurzeme Culture Programme 2024.
References
Nesta. 2024. “Consuming history: three decades of change in how and what we eat”. nesta. https://www.nesta.org.uk/data-visualisation-and-interactive/consuming-history-three-decades-of-change-in-how-and-what-we-eat/.
Peterson, Kristin and Valerie Olson. 2024. The Ethnographer’s Way: A Handbook for Multidimensional Research Design. Duke University Press.
[1] Province. 2024. Pitraga zemes spīts. https://replay.lsm.lv/lv/ieraksts/ltv/330457/province-pitraga-zemes-spits